At Tashkin, a modest-looking joint in Paharganj, Delhi, borscht is listed as a Russian dish. The brilliant red soup, with its flavourful mix of aromas featuring grated beetroot, carrot, cabbage and meat, is one of its bestsellers. Shyam Raj, the manager, learnt to make it at a Russian eatery in Goa and says it is loved by Indians as much as Russians, Afghans and the rest. “I eat it every day and I am not tired of it,” he says.
Borscht is not widely known in India, but several restaurants in the city serve the dish — though there are many versions of it. Celebrity chefs have offered their own recipe of it online. But everywhere, from India to the